One of the most exciting moments when you are traveling in Guatemala is the arrival of a Holy Week procession in Antigua. Thousands gather outside of the churches, on sidewalks, and even on rooftops along procession routes to watch these spectacles. First, the aroma of copal incense fills the air as hundreds of men and boys in silken purple robes, some swinging incense censers, fill the street. Soon dirges played on brass instruments and processional drums grow louder, heightening the anticipation. And then suddenly, emerging from a cloud of incense, the float appears.
Gleaming with gold and silver adornments, the immense float is nothing short of spectacular. Up to 100 cucuruchos (male float carriers), dressed in royal purple, shoulder the main float. Weighing up to three metric tonnes (7,000 lbs), the wooden float sways slowly with each step the carriers take. Larger-than-life 17th- and 18th-century sculptures arranged on top of platform portray biblical scenes or religious messages, and at the float’s center stands a poignant sculpture of Jesus in his crown of thorns, carrying a heavy cross.
Just behind the main float, cargadoras (female carriers) shoulder a second, slightly smaller float bearing a sculpture of the grieving Virgin Mary. The faces of these sculptures vividly express the passion of the crucifixion, and it is not uncommon to spot tears in the eyes of faithful onlookers as the image of Jesus or Mary passes.
Originally considered a penance in the 1500s, carrying the float is now also considered a privilege, and each carrier pays a small fee for the honor. A single procession can last more than 18 hours, often starting or ending before daybreak. Because the carriers take turns shouldering the massive floats, more than a thousand may carry a float over the course of a long procession.