| Peru, 2011 |
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The journey began in Trujillo, the beautiful former Colonial capital
of Peru, located on the coast north of Lima. The heart of most cities
in Spanish Latin America is a central square or Plaza de Armas,
usually a garden/park with benches, fountain(s), and monuments
framed by a church or Cathedral, the city hall, and other significant
administrative buildings or residences. The Plaza de Armas in
Trujillo is a glowing example of Spanish Colonial architecture and a
lively gathering place for young and old, day and night. We spent
part of each day there and were captivated every time.
of Peru, located on the coast north of Lima. The heart of most cities
in Spanish Latin America is a central square or Plaza de Armas,
usually a garden/park with benches, fountain(s), and monuments
framed by a church or Cathedral, the city hall, and other significant
administrative buildings or residences. The Plaza de Armas in
Trujillo is a glowing example of Spanish Colonial architecture and a
lively gathering place for young and old, day and night. We spent
part of each day there and were captivated every time.
A month in Peru generated an overwhelming number images and stories!
We hope you enjoy the highlights of archaeological sites, charming
Andean and colonial towns, dry forests, and wildlife.
We hope you enjoy the highlights of archaeological sites, charming
Andean and colonial towns, dry forests, and wildlife.
TRUJILLO Colonial City
HUACA de la LUNA and CHAN CHAN Archaeological Sites
When you go to Peru, most people assume you are going to Machu Picchu, the famous Inca
archeological site rediscovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911. And we did go there on our first
two trips, and Machu Picchu is breathtakingly deserving of its fame. Not everyone realizes,
though, that long before the Incas appeared on the scene, Peru was populated by many
highly organized, technologically and artistically advanced cultural groups, many of which
developed expansive empires and left astonishing archeological remains. The Inca
happened to be the most recent of these groups and the dominant one when the Spanish
arrived. That probably explains, to some extent, why they are more well known than the
Wari, the Chavin, the Moche, and the Chimu.
Trujillo is nestled among some of Peru’s other magnificent archeological sites. We visited
the Moche site, Huaca de la Luna and the Chimu site, Chan Chan. Though these two sites are
only a few kilometers apart, and the Chimu culture succeeded the Moche, you’ll see that the
two sites are surprisingly different.
We started our visit to Huaca de la Luna at the splendid new on-site museum where the
glass reflects the arid landscape typical of the northern coast of Peru. Inside, we were
dazzled by beautifully presented artifacts in clearly contextualized displays. The Moche was
a highly advanced culture active between approximately 100 and 800 A.D. Their carefully
planned irrigation systems, many still in use today, turned the desert into productive
agricultural land and supported a large population. They created fine ceramics, refined gold
and silver articles, and monumental adobe pyramids decorated with elaborate friezes.
The road to the Trujillo airport passes right through Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the
Americas. Chan Chan was built by the Chimu, who came on the scene about 850 AD and
continued to expand their empire until around 1470 when they were assimilated by the Inca
and, soon thereafter, by the Spanish.
archeological site rediscovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911. And we did go there on our first
two trips, and Machu Picchu is breathtakingly deserving of its fame. Not everyone realizes,
though, that long before the Incas appeared on the scene, Peru was populated by many
highly organized, technologically and artistically advanced cultural groups, many of which
developed expansive empires and left astonishing archeological remains. The Inca
happened to be the most recent of these groups and the dominant one when the Spanish
arrived. That probably explains, to some extent, why they are more well known than the
Wari, the Chavin, the Moche, and the Chimu.
Trujillo is nestled among some of Peru’s other magnificent archeological sites. We visited
the Moche site, Huaca de la Luna and the Chimu site, Chan Chan. Though these two sites are
only a few kilometers apart, and the Chimu culture succeeded the Moche, you’ll see that the
two sites are surprisingly different.
We started our visit to Huaca de la Luna at the splendid new on-site museum where the
glass reflects the arid landscape typical of the northern coast of Peru. Inside, we were
dazzled by beautifully presented artifacts in clearly contextualized displays. The Moche was
a highly advanced culture active between approximately 100 and 800 A.D. Their carefully
planned irrigation systems, many still in use today, turned the desert into productive
agricultural land and supported a large population. They created fine ceramics, refined gold
and silver articles, and monumental adobe pyramids decorated with elaborate friezes.
The road to the Trujillo airport passes right through Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the
Americas. Chan Chan was built by the Chimu, who came on the scene about 850 AD and
continued to expand their empire until around 1470 when they were assimilated by the Inca
and, soon thereafter, by the Spanish.
OTUZCO, HUANCHACO, BALLET FOLKLORICO
Click on the photos to
access the galleries
access the galleries
How much excitement can be packed into one day? Quite a bit, we discovered. After
spending a full morning at Huaca de la Luna, our friends suggested driving up into the
mountains to the village of Otuzco to have caldo de gallina (chicken soup) for lunch.
Hmm...a scenic drive, picturesque village, hearty soup...sounded great to us! The change
of scenery (and temperature) was quite dramatic and quite welcome.
By the time we got to Otuzco we were wondering if “chicken soup” would satisfy our
hunger. In hindsight, it’s clear that we should have photographed this meal. The cookies
and breads were eggy and delicately spiced with anise. The yucca was crisp and
delicious. It takes time to prepare chicken soup, Otuzco style. Imagine a HUGE bowl filled
to overflowing with thick egg noodles, a medley of perfectly cooked vegetables, and about
half a chicken all swimming around in a broth rich enough to be a meal by itself.
What do you do after a fantastic meal? Well, we go to the market! Otusco’s market is an
informal affair, spread along several streets. Some vendors had actual market stands
and a large-ish selection of items.
As we left Otuzco, Vero noticed that there was a good chance for a sunset so we barreled
down the mountains to the coast. The clouds gathered as the sun set but we were still
happy to have arrived at yet another northern Peruvian highlight: Huanchaco Beach,
famous with surfers. The north coast is also famous for the caballitos de tortola, fishing
boats (little horses) made of local reeds. These one-person vessels have been used since
ancient times, and we saw any number of ceramic artifacts in museums showing
fishermen mounted on little reed “horses.”
Anki’s sister-in-law got everyone tickets to a dance performance that night, and we
learned a lesson about hora peruana, Peruvian Time. The performance was scheduled to
begin at 7:30. We rolled back to the house around 7:00. Isn’t it time to go to the theater?
Nah, there’s plenty of time. How about a snack? At 7:40 we asked if we shouldn’t get
going. Well, there’s really no rush. O.K. When we finally got to the theater around 8:00,
people were milling around the entrance meeting up with friends and chit chatting.
Around 8:30, Anki’s sister-in-law said we were going to move from our third row seats up
to box seats that some of her friends had. Then, she waved us into the mayor’s box!
“Keep the door closed,” she cautioned, but the usher spotted us and told us we couldn’t
be in that box, Sandi glibly responded that we had been told to sit there. The usher took
one look at Bruce and his gear, asked if he was “filming,” which Sandi assured her he
was, and there we were, dignitaries in the mayor’s box. Oh, by the way, the show finally
got under way around 9:00!
For the next two hours we were mesmerized by the most professional, energetic,
dazzling folkloric dance performance we have ever seen! This university-student troupe,
backed by live musicians, presented a glorious sample of regional dances from all over
the country.
spending a full morning at Huaca de la Luna, our friends suggested driving up into the
mountains to the village of Otuzco to have caldo de gallina (chicken soup) for lunch.
Hmm...a scenic drive, picturesque village, hearty soup...sounded great to us! The change
of scenery (and temperature) was quite dramatic and quite welcome.
By the time we got to Otuzco we were wondering if “chicken soup” would satisfy our
hunger. In hindsight, it’s clear that we should have photographed this meal. The cookies
and breads were eggy and delicately spiced with anise. The yucca was crisp and
delicious. It takes time to prepare chicken soup, Otuzco style. Imagine a HUGE bowl filled
to overflowing with thick egg noodles, a medley of perfectly cooked vegetables, and about
half a chicken all swimming around in a broth rich enough to be a meal by itself.
What do you do after a fantastic meal? Well, we go to the market! Otusco’s market is an
informal affair, spread along several streets. Some vendors had actual market stands
and a large-ish selection of items.
As we left Otuzco, Vero noticed that there was a good chance for a sunset so we barreled
down the mountains to the coast. The clouds gathered as the sun set but we were still
happy to have arrived at yet another northern Peruvian highlight: Huanchaco Beach,
famous with surfers. The north coast is also famous for the caballitos de tortola, fishing
boats (little horses) made of local reeds. These one-person vessels have been used since
ancient times, and we saw any number of ceramic artifacts in museums showing
fishermen mounted on little reed “horses.”
Anki’s sister-in-law got everyone tickets to a dance performance that night, and we
learned a lesson about hora peruana, Peruvian Time. The performance was scheduled to
begin at 7:30. We rolled back to the house around 7:00. Isn’t it time to go to the theater?
Nah, there’s plenty of time. How about a snack? At 7:40 we asked if we shouldn’t get
going. Well, there’s really no rush. O.K. When we finally got to the theater around 8:00,
people were milling around the entrance meeting up with friends and chit chatting.
Around 8:30, Anki’s sister-in-law said we were going to move from our third row seats up
to box seats that some of her friends had. Then, she waved us into the mayor’s box!
“Keep the door closed,” she cautioned, but the usher spotted us and told us we couldn’t
be in that box, Sandi glibly responded that we had been told to sit there. The usher took
one look at Bruce and his gear, asked if he was “filming,” which Sandi assured her he
was, and there we were, dignitaries in the mayor’s box. Oh, by the way, the show finally
got under way around 9:00!
For the next two hours we were mesmerized by the most professional, energetic,
dazzling folkloric dance performance we have ever seen! This university-student troupe,
backed by live musicians, presented a glorious sample of regional dances from all over
the country.
Viru is a small town south of Trujillo on the Pan American highway. Our friends
still have their family home there. We had a lovely lunch and enjoyed their
beautiful backyard filled with all sorts of interesting objects, flowers, birds, and
people. The town and countryside were also quite photogenic.
still have their family home there. We had a lovely lunch and enjoyed their
beautiful backyard filled with all sorts of interesting objects, flowers, birds, and
people. The town and countryside were also quite photogenic.
Monsefu is south of Chiclayo in the Lambayeque region. We went there to
explore their renowned market. While the market was a bit disappointing
that didn't stop me from taking photos of people going by.
explore their renowned market. While the market was a bit disappointing
that didn't stop me from taking photos of people going by.
EL BRUJO and TUCUME Archaeological Sites
Coronets, Woodstars, Starfrontlets, Starthroats, Jewelfronts, Sunbeams, Sapphires,
Emeralds, Brilliants, Hermits, Comets, Violetears, Woodnymphs, and so on. Who wouldn't
enjoy birds with names like these? The gardens and feeders at Cock-of-the-Rock lodge
spoiled us and raised our expectations for hummingbird sightings at all of our upcoming
lodges. So, when we arrived at Amazonia Lodge in the rain and gloom we were delighted to
find not only electricity in the room, but also several new species of hummingbirds feeding in
the hibiscus and verbena right outside our door.
Amazonia Lodge situated at the foothills of the Andes provided lovely views of some of our
favorite birds and some amazing moths whose names we don't know.
Emeralds, Brilliants, Hermits, Comets, Violetears, Woodnymphs, and so on. Who wouldn't
enjoy birds with names like these? The gardens and feeders at Cock-of-the-Rock lodge
spoiled us and raised our expectations for hummingbird sightings at all of our upcoming
lodges. So, when we arrived at Amazonia Lodge in the rain and gloom we were delighted to
find not only electricity in the room, but also several new species of hummingbirds feeding in
the hibiscus and verbena right outside our door.
Amazonia Lodge situated at the foothills of the Andes provided lovely views of some of our
favorite birds and some amazing moths whose names we don't know.
One reason Inca structures may be better known than pre-Incan ones is that they were
constructed of stone – mind-bogglingly enormous blocks of stone, hand cut, transported
without the benefit of wheeled vehicles, and usually set in place without mortar. Needless to
say, they’ve held up really well. Along the north coast, however, the material at hand was adobe
and, though the structures are astonishing in their own right, they haven’t weathered as well.
Nevertheless, with just a bit of imagination you can appreciate what they must have looked like
in their original state.
Túcume is an excellent example of how extensive and impressive some of the archeological
sites are. Keep in mind that all of these pyramids and other structures are significantly eroded
so they’re a lot shorter than they used to be. Even so, it’s an effort to climb to the top.
The land around the archeological site is irrigated in much the same way, using many of the
same canal systems that the original inhabitants designed. It’s easy to see from this image
how the desert coast was able to support such a large population. The Moche and Chimu were
highly skilled engineers, hydrologists, and agronomists.
Peru’s archeological treasures have not always been displayed in appropriate museums.
However, some of the new museums are absolutely glorious and present their collections in
highly educational and artistic ways. The museum at El Brujo is one of these terrific new
museums, dedicated to contextualizing a very specific set of artifacts. In the case of El Brujo,
the artifacts are those found in and around the tomb of the only female ruler discovered to date
in Peru, the mummified Lady of Cao. The Lady of Cao is also the only tattooed mummy found in
Peru to date. Photos were not allowed in the museum but you might want to watch a video of
the discovery and unwrapping of the mummy.
constructed of stone – mind-bogglingly enormous blocks of stone, hand cut, transported
without the benefit of wheeled vehicles, and usually set in place without mortar. Needless to
say, they’ve held up really well. Along the north coast, however, the material at hand was adobe
and, though the structures are astonishing in their own right, they haven’t weathered as well.
Nevertheless, with just a bit of imagination you can appreciate what they must have looked like
in their original state.
Túcume is an excellent example of how extensive and impressive some of the archeological
sites are. Keep in mind that all of these pyramids and other structures are significantly eroded
so they’re a lot shorter than they used to be. Even so, it’s an effort to climb to the top.
The land around the archeological site is irrigated in much the same way, using many of the
same canal systems that the original inhabitants designed. It’s easy to see from this image
how the desert coast was able to support such a large population. The Moche and Chimu were
highly skilled engineers, hydrologists, and agronomists.
Peru’s archeological treasures have not always been displayed in appropriate museums.
However, some of the new museums are absolutely glorious and present their collections in
highly educational and artistic ways. The museum at El Brujo is one of these terrific new
museums, dedicated to contextualizing a very specific set of artifacts. In the case of El Brujo,
the artifacts are those found in and around the tomb of the only female ruler discovered to date
in Peru, the mummified Lady of Cao. The Lady of Cao is also the only tattooed mummy found in
Peru to date. Photos were not allowed in the museum but you might want to watch a video of
the discovery and unwrapping of the mummy.
The Chaparri Ecological Reserve is a community-based reserve developed, managed, and
staffed by the local community to protect their local flora and fauna and to generate much
needed tourism revenue. The reserve supports many unique species, several of which are
considered to be critically threatened. One of these, the White-winged Guan, was considered
extinct by noted ornithologists. Through fortuitous events this population became known and
the reserve created. The Spectacled Bear is now also protected and, when necessary,
rescued and rehabilitated within the reserve.
We were fortunate to see White-winged Guan daily and to see both wild and rescued
Spectacled Bear. The reserve also has a pool and waterfall where hummingbirds come soon
after dawn to bathe.
staffed by the local community to protect their local flora and fauna and to generate much
needed tourism revenue. The reserve supports many unique species, several of which are
considered to be critically threatened. One of these, the White-winged Guan, was considered
extinct by noted ornithologists. Through fortuitous events this population became known and
the reserve created. The Spectacled Bear is now also protected and, when necessary,
rescued and rehabilitated within the reserve.
We were fortunate to see White-winged Guan daily and to see both wild and rescued
Spectacled Bear. The reserve also has a pool and waterfall where hummingbirds come soon
after dawn to bathe.
After spending three nights at Chaparri, we had a half-day in Cusco prior to setting out on our
traverse of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. Sandi's mission in Cusco was to search for the
perfect alpaca sweater. Mine was to take photos. Fortunately, Cusco is another Spanish
colonial city with a beautiful Plaza de Armas, a cathedral, and numerous courtyards. People
with interesting faces and colorful dress were another focus.
The agency had been fairly insistent that we be picked up the next day at 5:00 am in order to
visit a local wetland and to have time to make other birding and culture stops during the very
long drive to our first lodge destination on the other side of the mountains. Fortunately, our
guide, a native of Cusco, realized that it would still be cold and dark at 5am so she called us at
our hotel to talk it over. We all happily postponed pickup to 5:45am. It's funny how that extra 45
minutes seemed like sleeping in! And, what a great introduction to our guide. Obviously she
was flexible and sensible, and was perfectly happy to discuss options with us. We told her on
the phone that we already liked her. The next day it became clear within a few hours that Doris
(aka Dora la Exploradora), was everything we hoped for! When we looked at the guides' bios on
the agency's website before booking the trip, Doris was the only one whose bio mentioned
knowledge of and enthusiasm for a wide range of topics in addition to birding, including
archeology, history, language, contemporary Peruvian culture, cuisine. Doris was an absolute
delight, and there was never a time during the trip that we were at a loss for a topic of
conversation. .
On the way to Manu we stopped at the beautiful wetlamds of Huarcarpay and the white-washed
town of Paucartambo. A small community on the slopes of the Andes.
traverse of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. Sandi's mission in Cusco was to search for the
perfect alpaca sweater. Mine was to take photos. Fortunately, Cusco is another Spanish
colonial city with a beautiful Plaza de Armas, a cathedral, and numerous courtyards. People
with interesting faces and colorful dress were another focus.
The agency had been fairly insistent that we be picked up the next day at 5:00 am in order to
visit a local wetland and to have time to make other birding and culture stops during the very
long drive to our first lodge destination on the other side of the mountains. Fortunately, our
guide, a native of Cusco, realized that it would still be cold and dark at 5am so she called us at
our hotel to talk it over. We all happily postponed pickup to 5:45am. It's funny how that extra 45
minutes seemed like sleeping in! And, what a great introduction to our guide. Obviously she
was flexible and sensible, and was perfectly happy to discuss options with us. We told her on
the phone that we already liked her. The next day it became clear within a few hours that Doris
(aka Dora la Exploradora), was everything we hoped for! When we looked at the guides' bios on
the agency's website before booking the trip, Doris was the only one whose bio mentioned
knowledge of and enthusiasm for a wide range of topics in addition to birding, including
archeology, history, language, contemporary Peruvian culture, cuisine. Doris was an absolute
delight, and there was never a time during the trip that we were at a loss for a topic of
conversation. .
On the way to Manu we stopped at the beautiful wetlamds of Huarcarpay and the white-washed
town of Paucartambo. A small community on the slopes of the Andes.
There are regularly scheduled 5-day tours that go to the four lodges we visited in Manu National
Park. We looked at the itineraries, location descriptions, and species lists for each and
booked the same tour, extending it over 15 days. We figured that the distances between the
lodges and the richness of the potential wildlife sightings at each merited longer stays at each
location. And, we would have been happy to have even more time! Each location was incredible
in its own way, and we never felt we had seen or done everything we could have.
Cock-of-the-Rock lodge, situated at 5000' in the cloud forest, was selected for its proximity to
an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock bird lek (a display area for male birds), for its expected cooler
temperatures, and for the possibilities of mixed flock birding. The lodge was nicely appointed,
had great food, excellent gardens, frequent visits of hummingbirds and monkeys, and easy
access to different habitats at higher and lower elevations. Unfortunately, weather from the
south brought colder temperatures and wetter days than normal. Socks, gloves, long
underwear, and extra blankets were the only way to keep warm at night in our unheated cabin.
Luckily, there was a hot water shower so we could warm up before tucking ourselves in!
Park. We looked at the itineraries, location descriptions, and species lists for each and
booked the same tour, extending it over 15 days. We figured that the distances between the
lodges and the richness of the potential wildlife sightings at each merited longer stays at each
location. And, we would have been happy to have even more time! Each location was incredible
in its own way, and we never felt we had seen or done everything we could have.
Cock-of-the-Rock lodge, situated at 5000' in the cloud forest, was selected for its proximity to
an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock bird lek (a display area for male birds), for its expected cooler
temperatures, and for the possibilities of mixed flock birding. The lodge was nicely appointed,
had great food, excellent gardens, frequent visits of hummingbirds and monkeys, and easy
access to different habitats at higher and lower elevations. Unfortunately, weather from the
south brought colder temperatures and wetter days than normal. Socks, gloves, long
underwear, and extra blankets were the only way to keep warm at night in our unheated cabin.
Luckily, there was a hot water shower so we could warm up before tucking ourselves in!
There is only a very small portion of the Manu Biosphere Reserve open to the public. The rest is
off-limits to all but researchers, special permit holders, and the ethnic groups who have
chosen to remain in isolation. The previous lodges; Cock-of-the-Rock and Amazonia and the
next one, Manu Wildlife Center are on the outskirts of the park zoned to allow human intrusion.
In the reserve itself there are 5 small tented camps tucked into the forest. There is no
electricity, but you can borrow a butane tank from the kitchen to heat up the water in the
shower, something we were grateful for after an eight-hour journey on the river through cold,
rain, and fog.
The banks and sandbars along the Manu river can be great for spotting wildlife basking in the
sun. When it's foggy or rainy, the trip isn't quite as rewarding.:( The tented camps are located
near an oxbow lake and a canopy tower. The lake is an excellent place to try to see Giant River
Otter and other oxbow lake specialties.
I had wanted to get pictures of the Black skimmer skimming, but had't been very lucky - rain,
low light, wrong travel direction all seemed to conspire against me. On our last day the sun
appeared and, as we transferred to the Wildlife Center, we were finally able to synchronize the
speed of the boat with the skimmer.
After days of low temperatures and rainy weather, we weren't the only ones happy to enjoy the
sun. A male jaguar took full advantage to sun himself along the bank
off-limits to all but researchers, special permit holders, and the ethnic groups who have
chosen to remain in isolation. The previous lodges; Cock-of-the-Rock and Amazonia and the
next one, Manu Wildlife Center are on the outskirts of the park zoned to allow human intrusion.
In the reserve itself there are 5 small tented camps tucked into the forest. There is no
electricity, but you can borrow a butane tank from the kitchen to heat up the water in the
shower, something we were grateful for after an eight-hour journey on the river through cold,
rain, and fog.
The banks and sandbars along the Manu river can be great for spotting wildlife basking in the
sun. When it's foggy or rainy, the trip isn't quite as rewarding.:( The tented camps are located
near an oxbow lake and a canopy tower. The lake is an excellent place to try to see Giant River
Otter and other oxbow lake specialties.
I had wanted to get pictures of the Black skimmer skimming, but had't been very lucky - rain,
low light, wrong travel direction all seemed to conspire against me. On our last day the sun
appeared and, as we transferred to the Wildlife Center, we were finally able to synchronize the
speed of the boat with the skimmer.
After days of low temperatures and rainy weather, we weren't the only ones happy to enjoy the
sun. A male jaguar took full advantage to sun himself along the bank
The Manu Wildlife Center was amazing not only for its local wildlife and many miles of trails,
access to an extremely tall canopy tower, and an interior forest clay lick, but for its large and
beautiful cabins, gourmet food, and well-trained staff. It was a great destination for our final
days in the rain forest. The sun came out, our clothes got washed, wildlife beckoned.
access to an extremely tall canopy tower, and an interior forest clay lick, but for its large and
beautiful cabins, gourmet food, and well-trained staff. It was a great destination for our final
days in the rain forest. The sun came out, our clothes got washed, wildlife beckoned.
240 photos from our 2007 trip to Peru that included Cusco, Machu Picchu, the Andean
weaving villages of Chinchero, Chahuaytire, and Pitumarca, the colonial towns of Ayacucho
and Arequipa, and several wildlife lodges in the Peruvian rain forest.
weaving villages of Chinchero, Chahuaytire, and Pitumarca, the colonial towns of Ayacucho
and Arequipa, and several wildlife lodges in the Peruvian rain forest.